Welcome To Uganda

Welcome. It’s the best word to describe how I feel now that I’ve arrived and experienced a full week here in the Pearl of Africa. The long airline layovers and flights have been well worth the time now that I am enjoying the hospitality, friendliness, and beauty of Uganda – particularly, southwestern Uganda. After landing at Entebbe airport during the night of Friday October 2nd, it was exciting to finally meet my friends Ben and Grace for the first time. We spent the night in Entebbe before traveling to their home nearby in the capital city of Kampala. It was a joy to meet their four children and see what life in the capital city is like.

Sunday, October 4th we worshipped at St. John’s Church of Uganda. Any church that contains the name “Church of Uganda” is said to be Anglican. We went to the English-speaking service and the message preached was about giving (an especially important message as a harvest offering is about to be brought into the local church). After enjoying lunch at Ben & Grace’s, we ventured out to do some sightseeing with the family. We found ourselves touring and getting a history lesson about the Buganda Kingdom, where the name “Uganda” is said to have originated from. Ben and Grace laughed and said there are so many places they have never visited in their own country, usually only when they have visitors. I reassured them, “That’s okay, I never been to the capital city of the United States!”

Monday, October 5th we took care of some business in Kampala – purchased books for our first trauma healing workshop; did some banking; picked up a better converter for my laptop; purchased some food, kitchen, and laundry supplies at a supermarket.

On Tuesday, October 6th we departed Kampala to head to western Uganda. Along the way we stopped at the Equator, a popular stop and photo opportunity for whites such as myself. Would you believe I was actually wearing a jacket? True story. It’s rainy season right now so morning, evening, and nighttime can be very cool. And if it rains during the day it cools down quite a bit as well. But there is still enough sunshine at times that it can be very hot. One moment as Grace and I were commenting that we were both feeling cold she said, “Welcome to winter!” I told her if she ever comes to the United States she should not come during the winter months because she would not like the weather.

We made a few stops as we were traveling west toward Bushenyi. We stopped once for tea and a little food. We also made a stop to purchase some fresh fish. That was quite an experience. Grace pulled the vehicle over and got out to start looking over the fish and fresh produce. People were all around the front of the vehicle trying to get her to buy their fish or produce. She was able to make her choice and she purchased some tomatoes as well. How do you transport fresh fish you have just purchased from a roadside seller? String ‘em on rope and tie ‘em to the front of the vehicle! (Makes sense to me.) We then kept heading west. We made a few more stops close to the trading centre where I would be living so that Ben could buy a few things to give to his family. Then, after a journey totaling about eight hours, we arrived at the COVOID headquarters at Nyakasharu Trading Centre. That’s actually where I am living, a trading centre – not a city or a village. I was told that a trading centre is a step down from a village and that Nyakasharu Trading Centre is trying to become a village. (To me, it looks like it has more businesses than Mineral City, Ohio.) I was given brief introductions to COIVOID staff members – Robert, Justus, the two Scovia’s (yep, there are two young women who answer to the name “Scovia”).

Robert and Justus, along with Ben and Grace, helped me get settled into my new home and gave introductions with my new neighbors. They are all very nice and friendly. Some of them speak formal English, others can at least speak a few words and phrases. They have been most helpful as I am getting used to doing things, such as the correct way to wash laundry by hand. I also met the guy who I like to think of as “The Super.” His name is Bruno and he told me if I have any questions or need anything I can let him know. He reassured me that where I am living is very safe and friendly. So far, I find this to be true.

The next morning, Wednesday, October 7th, I was given more formal introductions – Robert, Justus, Scovia, Scovia, Resty, Vicent, Barnabus, Edmund, Benjamin (to name a few). They introduced themselves and briefly explained their responsibilities. Then I introduced myself. I mentioned how I believe that it was God who led me to southwestern Uganda, partly because of Genesis chapter 12 (the concept of “Blessed to be a Blessing). I also mentioned that I believe we Americans sometimes believe that we are smarter than everyone…that we go to places and think that people there are not very smart. I told them that I do not believe this to be true…that I had arrived in Uganda to share some of the resources that I have come across, but also to spend time learning from each of them, because I’m sure there are things that they can teach me that I can return to The United States with, share with others, and apply. I am not here to throw around some US dollars, then leave never to be heard from again.

We all had lunch together at the office and then Ben and Grace had some errands to run. I stayed behind at the office and was able to spend time with Justus, Scovia, and Scovia. Lots of laughter. Justus started telling a story to all of us and I soon realized I was the only one paying attention to his story. We all had a good laugh about that. Later in the evening, Ben and Grace stopped by and we walked across the road to eat at the hotel – fish and rice…Mmmm. Robert and Justus ended up joining us. Apparently they are regulars there, so the waitress brings them “the usual.”

The next morning, Thursday, October 8th, I met with Ben, Grace, Robert, and Barnabus to discuss the trauma healing workshop. I gave a brief overview of the purpose and some ground rules we set as we will begin. Then we briefly went through each of the chapters so they had some awareness of the issues being taught and discussed. We discussed the practical applications to COVOID’s outreach and also discussed some items that may be challenges as we begin. As of Thursday’s meeting, we still needed to secure the venue and give final notice to the 30 participants. Our meeting ended after about 2 hours, and about a half-hour later lunch had finished being prepared.

In the afternoon, Ben and Grace took me to nearby Kingfisher Lodge. They said it would be a good place for me and the other American (due to arrive Friday, October 16th) to sometimes go to eat and taxi fare to get there is very inexpensive, approximately 1 US dollar ($1 USD). Kingfisher Lodge was my first glimpse of taking in Queen Elizabeth National Park, formerly known as Rwenzori National Park. It was amazing to look across the expanse of land and see the mountains in the background, hidden behind a white blanket of clouds. The only wildlife we could see was what one of the lodge staff said was water bucks, which only looked like small dots (should have brought binoculars). The lodge staff said sometimes they can see elephants grazing in the area (they would still be slightly difficult to see given the distance). Before we left Kingfisher Lodge, we got take-away (take-out) because it looked as though it was going to rain again. Ben and Grace wanted to make it back to their home in the village before it started raining because when it rains, the road is too dangerous to travel and they have to stay at the trading centre.

Happy Independence Day! Friday, October 9th was Uganda’s Independence Day. It is a national holiday. Children do not go to school and most people do not have to work on a national holiday. It is said that most people do not really celebrate Independence Day in the villages in southwest Uganda. They celebrate more in the capital city and up north. Christmas is usually a popularly celebrated holiday, though. And, as in The United States, they still enjoy any national holiday where they are not required to go to school or work.

Though it was a national holiday, COVOID staff who belong to the COVOID Village Savings and Loans Association (VSLA) met for their weekly meeting. Some COVOID staff participate in their own VSLA so that as they oversee VSLAs in the surrounding villages, they have practical insight and can give better recommendations to other VSLAs. They experience was those they are assisting experience. VSLAs are very beneficial. They can only have 15-30 participants.

There are three funds within a VSLA – Savings, Welfare, and Loan. Each is expected to contribute to his or her own savings and to the general welfare fund. Then, based on how much they have saved, they can ask the rest of the group for a loan. They must state the reason they are requesting the loan (what it will be used for). When a loan is granted, it is expected to be paid within a certain period of time, with interest. The welfare fund is reserved for when a member needs money for an emergency situation. When this money is granted it is expected to be repaid within a certain period of time, without interest. No money is to be loaned to anyone who is not a member of the VSLA. Financial information (debits/credits) is recorded in members’ passbooks and the group’s cashbook.

Order is maintained by a chairman at each meeting. And the small metal safe can only be locked and unlocked by three key keepers, in the presence of all other members at the weekly meeting. Currency, passbooks and the cashbook are stored in the locked metal safe. If someone cannot attend they must find another member of their VSLA to represent them. If someone does not attend a weekly meeting or they are considered to have arrived late, they are issued a fine. There are also other guidelines to maintain order and accountability. For instance, during Friday’s meeting part of the group’s constitution being developed was being passed around and signed. One of the members did not feel comfortable signing it because he had some questions since he had not had much time to read through it. He began discussing it with two other members sitting near him and those other two members began discussing it among themselves. The chairman and a couple of other members noted that they had been having a discussion among themselves instead of bringing up the issue with the chairman, so they were each issued a fine. There was lots of laughter mixed among all of the conversation and everyone was a good sport about paying the fines.

Later in the afternoon, Justus stopped by my place as he was preparing a nearby place for the other American. We keep referring to the other American as “the other American” because the Peace Corps will not release the name or sex of the two-year volunteer. We’re guessing it’s a female because they are requiring both Robert and Grace to attend a workshop for a few days to get acquainted with him/her. Also, someone from the Peace Corps who inspected the living accommodations requested that the room be DIRECTLY across from where the toilet and showers are. My room us not directly across, but it is still very close, probably within 30-50 feet. (I don’t think a male would be as concerned about being so close.) Still, the other American remains as a mystery.

Justus was waiting for the floors to be cleaned so we chatted while he was waiting. Some of my neighbor kids (two boys and a girl) were around as well. Justus said they seemed afraid of me because I am white. It didn’t take long for them to warm up to me. We began playing and skipping around together. They were wearing me out as I haven’t had much exercise! After Justus left I let the kids start playing with my hair. They seemed to be amused by it, and then the girl gave me three ponytails – beautiful! As I said, they were wearing me out and the little girl kept trying to crawl all over me and the boys kept coming up and teasing me as well. I had tried telling the children that if they didn’t let me go, I was going to have to lock myself in my room! I was relieved when Brenda, an older neighbor girl, returned home and chased them all away from me. She looked at me and laughed. I thanked her for rescuing me.

Saturday morning Ben and I traveled to Kasese, a larger town. We went to exchange some currency and Ben also wanted to introduce me to his friend, Florence, at White House Hotel. He said it is a very clean and secure place to stay, should I or the other American ever wish to get away and stay there. The best part about traveling to and from Kasese…traveling through Queen Elizabeth National Park! We saw some baboons along the road (something I wasn’t expecting to see). Then, Ben noticed a group of elephants along my side of the road, so he pulled the vehicle over so I could get a better look. Awesome! I was actually looking at real wild African elephants! They were bathing at a watering hole. It was an exciting scene for me to take in.

As Ben and I were returning from Kasese, we met up with Grace and Vicent. The four of us traveled to Kashaka to visit a VSLA. Vicent is COVOID’s Community Based Trainer (CBT) for this VSLA. He visits and assists the group to help them improve their meetings and make sure they are following guidelines. Grace helps oversee the entire McKnight Project (the implementation of VSLA’s are funded by the Minnesota based McKnight Foundation), so she makes visits for accountability purposes as well. This was to be Ben’s first time to meet this group, so he wanted to give them a formal greeting and address as COVOID’s President and CEO.

Vicent, Grace, and Ben each addressed the group. They wanted to make sure they were addressing concerns in areas where the group was not following all of the guidelines. The dangers with not following guidelines are that the loaning process becomes more difficult and every member of the group may not be able to adequately participate in the group decision-making process. I was also given the opportunity to address the group, as an American friend and volunteer with COVOID.

While we were in the fishing community of Kashaka, Grace pointed out nearby hippos, coming up out of the water for air. There seem to be several in the area. I was told that in the evening they begin coming up out of the water where we were standing so that they can graze. I said, “Wow!” A local man who was standing with me and Grace said, “Never compromise a wild animal!”

We then headed back to Nyakasharu Trading Centre. We took a woman and her baby part of the way back with us. She started telling a story about two men, traveling by motor bike, who were traveling on the road we were traveling on. A lion came upon them and the one man had to fight the lion off with the rubber boot he was wearing. As I recall the story being translated to me, the men made it away safely. We soon saw some cobs (look like antelope). Vicent said if you see some cobs it’s a good thing because it means there are no lions around. He also pointed out a place in the road where you have to pay close attention. There is a watering hole right along a place in the road where elephants will sometimes walk up out of, and if you’re not paying attention it can be dangerous.

Note to self: When traveling to outlying fishing communities, beware of lions and elephants.